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Why your Mobile Phone is not as good as a Real Camera

Being the photographer that I am, I get a lot of people asking me what type of camera they should get, and more often in todays climate, why should they even buy a camera at all. Especially when their mobile phone has a camera and it has a massive? 21 mega pixels, where as a DSLR may only have 16 mega pixels.

On the face of it, you may think they are right. Surely having 21 mega pixles or 21 million pixels is better than only having 16 mega pixels or 16 million pixels!!

The answer is a very simple NO!!

The problem is with the two main elements that are the basis of photography and these are light and drawing as in the word itself.

Photo (light) graphy (drawing)

So having a good quality photograph requires that you maximise the elements involved to produce the best results.

Light

In order to get a good photograph you need the right amount of hitting the sensor (more on the sensor in a bit). This means having a lens that allows the most light in so it can create your photo. This is where one of the mistakes people make in comparing mobile phones with actual cameras comes in and that is the F Number of the lens (check out my article about F Numbers).

In most cases in order to maximise the light into the lens you need a large aperture and a fast lens, this usually takes the form of a lens with a low F Number something like an f/2.8 on the new iPhone 6s. So you will be thinking, thats great my new iPhone has the same F Number as a more expensive camera lens, so why do I need to buy a camera.

Simple – Not all lens are the physically the same size.

As you can see from the diagram above, the F Numbers on the mobile phone cameras can be the same as those on a DSLR camera, However as you can clearly see the actual lens opening (aperture)  is different. Put simply the DSLR lens has a larger diameter and as such even set to the same F Number will allow a lot more light in and therefore a lot more lights hits the sensor.

In simple terms fully open the lens on your mobile will be a few millimetres maximum, where as fully open the lens on a DSLR will be a few centimetres. (this is also why some lens can allow more light to enter compared to a faster lens at the lower F Number)

Drawing

The next important element in taking a good photograph is the drawing (graphy) or information stored during exposure.

This leads to one of the biggest mistakes in comparing mobile phone cameras and DSLR cameras, and that is mega pixels.

A mega pixels is simple an area of 1 million pixels that captures the information during exposure of a photography, so generally the more mega pixels the more details and the higher resolution the shot you will take.

This is where it gets interesting, not mega pixel is either the same quality or the same size. The sensors used in most modern mobile phones are way smaller than those used in modern DSLR cameras.

As you can see from the simple diagram above. If we take a 4 mega pixels mobile phone camera and compare it to a 4 mega pixel DSLR you can clearly see the size of each mega pixel is larger and in turn the size of the pixels inside are larger. So we get 4 million larger pixels in our DSLR as opposed to 4 million smaller ones in the mobile phone.

This means that we get more information stored and more detail in the photograph by the DSLR compared with a mobile phone.

In Closing

In modern day mobile phones and DSLR the technology has dramatically improved, this means it is possible to take decent photos on a mobile phone in low light, this is due to additional factors such as the actual sensor type and camera chips used in processing the photos. However, the same rules apply, no matter how much jiggery pokery you get from technology, the DSLR will always produce better photos.

However even the sensors in DSLR cameras are of a difference type and size, but more on that later.

Most Common Photography Terms

Ok so I have given a little insight into how to mount your lens and what its buttons do, I am also going to give you an quick overview of the most common terms you will hear in connection to photography. Dont worry its not going to be too indepth or technical and definately not going to go on for ever, its just a simple guide to help you with you photography success.

And before you start go saying “what about this and what about that”, this page is only meant to give the most common terms you will encounter when starting and working in advertising, fashion, editorial or commercial photography. It is not meant to be a full list of every lens type or every photography term on the planet.

The first thing to remember is the DSLR standard for Digital Single Lens Reflex, as is there is a single motion in the lens to take the shot, and its digital. This differs from how cameras in your mobile phone work, such as your iPhone, although it is still possible to take some great photos or movies on your mobile

DSLR Camera Lens Terms

Glass

This is a common term used to simply mean the lens, this comes from the simply fact that lenses contain glass and the better lens you use the better glass it has inside.

 Lens Speed

This is one of the most common terms you will hear about lenses and at first hearing you assume it must be to do with the speed a lens can take a photo. Wrong.

Lens speed is the term used to indicate how much light gets into the lens via the aperture, the larger the aperture the fast the lens. For example a 2.8 lens is faster than a 4.0 lens as it has a larger aperture opening to let more light in.

Generally lenses classed as fast are aperture values 2.8 and lower.

Aperture

Thought mentioning this made sense after the lens speed thing above. When discussing the aperture we are talking about how open the lens gets and how much light is allowed to get into the camera.

This is a little confusing as we talk about higher aperture, which means a larger lens opening but in actual fact the aperture value will be less, as 2.8 is a faster more open aperture than 4.0. Simply put the lower the number the more light enters the camera and the faster the lense.

Aperture values are expressed as f numbers such as f2.8, this is because the aperture value is actually a fraction of the focal length of the lens. (not going to bore you with maths)

So just remember smaller aperture value or f number means faster lens and more light entering the camera.

Focal Length

This is normally expressed in mm such as 70-200mm lens for example and is simply how far the lens will zoom in and out.

Lens Types

Telephoto / Zoom lens

Lenses that do not have a fixed focal length, this lens can be zoomed in and out.

Prime Lens

Lenses that have a fixed focal length, typically used in portrait photography. This lens does not move and cannot be zoomed in or out.

Wide Angle Lens

A lens which can capture a wider field of view, simply it can show you more of the scene when at its widest setting typically 28mm or lower.

Tilt and Shift

This is a type of lens that can shoot a photograph with a single area in focus but the rest of the image slightly out of focus

Useful Photography Terms
F Stop

This is an expression of the amount of given light falling onto a subject, typically for each number the light is reduced by 1.

NOTE the f numbers used to describe the aperture of a lens are not the same are F Stop numbers used to describe the amount of light.

Crop Sensor

This is the terms used when a DSLR camera has a sensor size less than that of a 35mm film frame, typically expressed in terms of numbers such as 1.6 which is the crop factor compared to a full frame.

Full Frame

This is the term used when a camera has a sensor the same size of that of a 35mm film frame

Medium Format

This is a term used for a camera which is capable of taking shots that can be printed at a large size and that have a sensor larger than a standard 35mm film frame

Large Format

This is the terms used for cameras than can take photos that can be printed at 1m x 1m or large, this size is commonly used when selling your shots for use in large billboard or posters.

Reflector
Something used to reflect light onto or away from your subject.

Filters

Attachments to the lens to change available light, add effects and many other things. They normally come in either screw on or holder types, filters can be used to create some great shots and add something to your shots that you would normally do in Photoshop. For an example of what you can do with and without filters I recommend this EBook series

Stock Photos / Stock Photography

This is the art of taking a photo that has a multitude of uses, and is normally sold to a Stock Agency to be resold. Images that are Stock as things like a picture of a person reading, something ona  desk or anything else that is generic in nature. For a bit for on this and how to make a living out of Stock Photo check out this great EBook by Nick Stubbs

DSLR Controls – Front Controls

I must start first off by saying that the shots in this post are of my Canon 7D and whilst most Canon cameras all have the same layout, Nikons do not. This does not really make a lot of difference as the operation of most DSLR cameras are the same, and whilst the buttons may not be in the same place, they do operate in the same or similar way.

Also another important note is that you can program the buttons on most DSLR to do different functions as you prefer, the diagrams and descriptions although are correct for the functions may not operate the same as your camera as these layouts are the default layouts.

The way this will work is I will cover each side of the camera in turn, Back, Front and Top. I am not going to mention stupid things like where the batteries go, or how to attach a strap but the more necessary things as well as somethings that when I first started I just could not figure out. Also I have changed the names slightly to help you make more sense of things and not be too technical.


Front of DSLR

Front of Canon 7D


The front of most DSLR cameras looks the same with the lens mount being in the middle with a release button to allow you to remove it.
Again I will start at the bottom left of the picture and work clockwise.
Lens Mirror
When you remove your lens and see inside your camera, you see the lens mirror. this is the bit that makes you camera an SLR and allows you to see through the viewfinder.
DO NOT TOUCH OR PUT ANYTHING IN HERE.

Remote Sensor

This is the sensor used by the camera when being operated by infrared remote control, it is not the same place that a remote camera cable release would use.
Shutter Button
The button your press to actually take the photo, at default settings pressing half way down will start focus and lock exposure, full press will take the shot.
Red Eye Reduction / Self Timer Indicator
This little light is a dual purpose little fella, when using the self timer it flashes to let you know when the shot it going to be taken.
It also works to reduce red eye in your shots.
Lens Line Up Marks
On all DSLR there is a mark to show you where to connect your lens. On some makes of Canon which take both EF and EFS lenses there are two marks.
Red for EF lenses
White for EF-S lenses
To connect a lens simply line up the make on the side of the lens with the mark on the camera and turn.
Flash Button (only on certain models)
On models with a built in flash there is a button to pop up the flash when you need it. This is normally only needed in manual modes as the flash will pop up automatically when needed in auto modes.
Lens Release
To the left of the lens mount there is a large button, this is to release the lens in order to remove it from the camera. Just press the button and turn the lens to remove.
How to attach a lens to a DSLR
In order to attach a lens to your DSLR camera simply do the following
  1. Remove the lens cover and lens cap from your lens.
  2. Line up the white or red mark at the base of your lens with the white or red mark on the lens mount on the camera.
  3. If the marks are lined up correctly the lens will just slip onto the camera, do not try to force it, if it does not just slip on you have not lined it up correctly.
  4. Now turn the lens, normally clockwise, until it clicks. Your lens is now on your camera.
How to remove a lens from a DSLR
To remove a lens from your DSLR simply do the following
  1. With one hand press the Lens release button (normally to the side / left of the lens)
  2. Now with the other hand turn the lens, normally counter clockwise, until it comes of the camera. It does not take any force to remove the lens so if it feel stuck make sure you have pressed the release button. Your lens is now off your camera  
Depth of Field Button
On certain DSLR such as the Canon 7D there is a depth of field preview button, pressing this shows you the best depth of field for your chosen settings.

Final Note
Most of the camera buttons have a dual function and in order to make adjustments you need to use either the rear dial or the top dial depending on what you want to change.

Camera Lens

OK there is lots that can be said about camera lenses, good bad and ugly. It is not my aim on my blog to get really techical about lenses I am simply going to help you by giving you some basic necessary information to help you out, and in most cases this info applies to both video cameras as well as DSLR.


Again the shots used are based on Canon, but all DSLR lenses work the same work, only slight differences are connected to two areas

  1. All telephoto or zoom lenses have a zoom ring, but on some makes of lense the ring turns in a different direction to others, noticably Sigma lenses turn the opposite way to Canon lenses in order to zoom.

  2. NOT all lenses have a form of Image Stabilizer on them, and on some its called something different such as VR on Tamron lenses.



DSLR Lens Controls

Canon IS Lens



Again for this I will start at the bottom left of the diagram and work clockwise.


Image Stabilzer Switch (IS) Switch

This switch is used to turn on or off the image stablizing functions of the lens, again remember this switch may be called something different on your lens but will work in the same way.

Switching this on will give you a bit of assistance when hand holding the camera, normal this is around 1 stop of light, but put simply means you can shoot in a slower shutter speed or narrower aperture than without using it, lettginy ou take more professional shots. I would highly recommend taking a look at David Petersons Book as it is full of very useful tips and tricks to get more out of your photography.


NOTE – remember when using a lens with built in stabilzation that when ever you mount the camera on a firm surface or a tripod turn off the IS in order to avoid it interferring with your shots.

Lens Mount Indicator

The is the mark that you line up with the matching mark on your camera body to mount your lens. In canon lenses it also indicates the of lens. EF lenses are RED and EF-S lenses are white.

How to attach a lens to a DSLR
In order to attach a lens to your DSLR camera simply do the following

  1. Remove the lens cover and lens cap from your lens.

  2. Line up the white or red mark at the base of your lens with the white or red mark on the lens mount on the camera.

  3. If the marks are lined up correctly the lens will just slip onto the camera, do not try to force it, if it does not just slip on you have not lined it up correctly.

  4. Now turn the lens, normally clockwise, until it clicks. Your lens is now on your camera.

How to remove a lens from a DSLR
To remove a lens from your DSLR simply do the following

  1. With one hand press the Lens release button (normally to the side / left of the lens)

  2. Now with the other hand turn the lens, normally counter clockwise, until it comes of the camera. It does not take any force to remove the lens so if it feel stuck make sure you have pressed the release button. Your lens is now off your camera



Auto / Manual Focus Switch

This is the switch you use to switch the lens between Auto and Manual Focus. Again remember that no matter what settings are on your camera it will not fiocus if this switch is set to Manual. To manually focus your lens after switching this to manual use the Focus Ring.

Focus Ring

This is used to focus your camera on yoru subject, only works after you switch the Auto / Manual Focus Switch to manual. Then simply turn the ring as you look through the view finder or at the Live View screen to focus.

Zoom Ring (only on Tele-Photo / Zoom Lenses)

This ring is used to bring your subject closer or further away. Please note that some lenses work in the opposite direction to zoom in or out.

Filters

I thought I would briefly touch on the use of filters with your lens, filters are a way to change the light entering the camera and can be used to simply add colour, or to control the light entering the camera in a variety of different ways, the most common filters for controlling light are known as an ND or neutral density filter and a polarizing filter.

Although filters are more common in landscape photos they can be used in any environment to enhance your shots.

UV Filter

My first suggestions and HUGE piece of advise which I am happy to repeat is to fit a screw on UV filter to your lenses, this will not change anything in your photographs but will protect your lens from getting scratched, and being that it is cheaper to replace a screw on UV filter than your lens this makes sense and is exactly what I do.

Filters are generally attached to the front of your lens as either a dual threaded screw on fitting which simply screws directly onto your lens front, or in filter holder arrangement such as Cokin holders, these attach to your lens by an adapter ring screwing onto your lens, on this is attached the filter holder into which you put your filters.

Cokin P Filter Holder and Adapter Rings

The Cokin filters are all the same size for the holder normally A or P size, the filters simply slide into the holder and you use the same filter for each lens, and you only need to buy different size adapter rings as per the thread size fo your lenses.

Cokin P Size ND Filter



So in short buy and keep a screw on UV filter on your lens, then buy a Cokin P filter holder and adapter ring, and simply buy cokin P filters as you need then, cokin filters are numbered so for example a P164 is a Circular Polarizing filter.




Neutral Density ND Filter


A very useful tool in your photography arsenal is a set of ND filters. An ND filter will block out light entering the lens without effecting the colours of the photograph, these are normally number and the higher the number is more light will get blocked by the filter, yet at all times retaining the colour of your photograph.

Shot taken without ND Filter

As you can see from the above shot trying to capture some scenes during strong daylight is impossible and you end up with a very over exposed shot.

Shot taken with ND Filter

Now if we look at the second shot by adding an ND filter, you can clearly see that the light in greatly reduced but the colours remain.


Circular Polarizing Filters CPL


Circular Polarizing Filters known as CPL filters reduce the amount of reflective light in your photo as they do this by removing white light from the photo they are also used to enhance the sky or to remove the reflection from a pond, glass or anything else.

Shot taken without Polarizing Filter

As you can see in the above shot, although the colours are generally ok the sky is totally washed out and we cant make out the clouds.

Shot taken with Polarizing Filter

Now if we look at the second shot the colours are less washed out and we can now make out the detail and clouds in the sky.

Remember though when using a polarizing filter it will effect your whole image and unlike ND filters they do have an effect on the colour of your shot.

NOTE – with modern DSLR cameras make sure to use a Circular Polarizing Filter CPL and NOT a Linear Polarizing Filter LPL, as the Linear filter can have an adverse effect on your cameras auto focus, although if you intend to only use manual focus you can use either filters

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